Disney's California Adventure is not a simple expansion of the Magic Kingdom. It's something new entirely. Perhaps the biggest departure from the Disney formula is that California Adventure is designed to appeal mostly to older children and adults, rather than the stroller set found next door. Not that smaller children won't enjoy it--there are several rides made just for them. But many of the rides, especially the flagship California Screamin' roller coaster and the flight-simulating Soarin' over California, are a little intense for tiny tots.

On the other hand, there aren't a lot of e-ticket rides, either, although California Screamin' and Soarin' over California are well worth the price of admission.

Another major departure is the relative absence of Mickey, Minnie, and the usual hordes of minimum-wage slaves dressed up as Disney characters. You can even drink at California Adventure (Walt may be spinning in his grave over this)--in fact, there's a whole wine-tasting area. It's almost as if the park were attempting to be a little more--perish the thought--grown up.

But not to worry; the designers of the park remembered that they've got the "Happiest Place on Earth" reputation to live up to, and there's plenty to keep your kids--not to mention your own inner Peter Pan--happy.

Disney's California Adventure may sound like it's founded on a strange premise: selling California to people who are already there. But in fact, the park allows Disney to do what it does best: create a fantasy world appealing to kids and adults. Unlike the Magic Kingdom, this one is inspired by reality. But after a visit, you're guaranteed to see California in a whole new way, whether you're a native, a first-time visitor, or something in between.

The park, small by Disney standards (it was built on 55 acres in a former Disneyland parking lot), is divided into three parts: The Golden State, showcasing the diverse landscapes, population, and (especially) dining pleasures of California; Paradise Pier, a modern take on an old-time boardwalk, and Hollywood Pictures Backlot, inspired by the golden age of cinema.

Golden State
It is in the Golden State area that you'll find one of the park's most popular and visually stunning attractions: Soarin' over California is a unique ride for almost all ages (small children and those afraid of heights might want to sit this one out). You sit in airplane-like seats suspended a few feet above the floor, in front of an IMAX movie screen. A fan blows what starts out as a gentle breeze through your hair. Within seconds, the film starts and you feel as though you are careening through some of the most spectacular scenery in California. You zoom through the Sierras, and over the Southern California desert. Moments later, you're so low over a gorgeous set of breakers you worry you might accidentally kick a surfer. Then you're dodging golf balls at Pebble Beach and flying high over the Golden Gate Bridge. The whole thing culminates in the middle of a fireworks display over--where else--Disneyland. After all, only Disney could pull off the illusion of traveling the length and breadth of the state when in reality you've barely left the ground.

The other extremely popular ride here is the Grizzly River Run. This water ride is one of the most eye-catching in the park, as it centers around a 150-foot tall artificial mountain made to look like a grizzly snout. Billed as the tallest and fastest white-water ride, this one's definitely worth the wait to get on. The ride starts pleasantly enough, but soon your raft is spinning and bobbing through growing rapids, culminating in a drop of 20 feet or so at the end. At six minutes, this is one of the longer thrills in the park. Also the wettest.

Other exhibits in the Golden State area highlight parts of California many visitors never see. The Bountiful Valley Farm is a tribute to the vast farms that dot the state. The Golden Vine Winery is inspired by real-life wineries in the Napa and Sonoma valleys. And the Mission Tortilla Factory pays tribute to the state's Mexican flavor.

Paradise Pier
While the Golden State area may be the park's raison d'être, Paradise Pier is where the kids are going to want to spend the most time, since it's where you'll find the majority of the rides. This section of the park was designed with an old-fashioned carnival boardwalk in mind--something like Coney Island or Santa Cruz, complete with a Ferris wheel and ring-toss games. But this boardwalk is fully a part of the twenty-first century. For instance, look closely, and you'll realize that the "wooden" California Screamin' roller coaster's frame is actually metal. A good thing, too, since it's unlikely a wooden frame could handle the explosive acceleration (zero to 55 in five seconds) that kicks off the ride--or the Mickey-Mouse shaped 360-degree loops. And take a closer look at the Sun Wheel, too. This version of the fairground standby comes with a twist: Not only do the cars go around and around with the Ferris wheel, they also slide precipitously back and forth along a track, for a little extra adrenaline kick.

The rides above are definitely geared toward grade-school aged kids. But there are rides for the little ones as well. Mulholland Madness is a mini-coaster for those who don't feel up for California Screamin'. Jumping Jellyfish is a slow-paced, under-sea themed ride for the youngest kids. And of course, no boardwalk would be complete without a carousel (King Triton's Carousel, to be exact), great for the kid in all of us.

Hollywood Pictures Backlot
Step into the Hollywood of yesteryear at Disney's tribute to the movies. You enter through a massive stylized gate, complete with a pair of golden elephants straight out of a D.W. Griffith classic. Once through the gate, you stroll down a never-ending Hollywood Boulevard that seems to disappear into the sunset. OK, so it's just a backdrop that looks borrowed from some MGM musical from the 40s. But it's a pretty cool effect. Wait--was that Marilyn Monroe getting into a limo? No, it's a celebrity look-alike. But once again, you've fallen under the spell of Disney movie magic.

The Backlot can be covered fairly quickly if you're short on time. But do not leave without seeing the two main attractions. Jim Henson's Muppet Vision 3-D combines 3-D technology, live action, and Muppet magic in a show that will entertain Kermit fans of all ages.

Also not to be missed is Disney Animation. Here you'll find an art deco pavilion full of screens showing clips from animated Disney films. Another film, narrated by Walter Cronkite and Robin Williams, explains the animation process, showing how line drawings become animated extravaganzas.

Of course, the story of California cannot be told without food. Luckily that's something there's plenty of in this small park. Whatever your taste and budget, you'll find something pleasing. Restaurants range from the low-key Burger Invasion (Don't be fooled; it's a McDonalds) to the upscale seafood of Avalon Cove by Wolfgang Puck, with 24 other eating options in between.

Unique in the Disney Kingdom is the Golden Vine Terrace, serving fine California wines--something that wouldn't have been possible in Uncle Walt's teetotaling day. It's just another example of Disney updating its image for the twenty-first century while continuing to do what it has done best for nearly 50 years: creating a magic world the whole family will enjoy.•